There were about ten of us at the session yesterday and, once we had got in (the inner door was unusually locked), we had some bidding practice.

The main point I wanted to get over was that it is useful to treat the bid of a new suit as forcing and should not be passed - 'a change of suit is forcing'.

On the other hand a bid of No Trumps, a support of partner's suit or bidding your own suit again are not forcing - though partner can go on if they want to.
These are called 'Limit bids' because they limit the strength of the hand. It follows that if you want to be in game you must bid game at that point as otherwise partner may pass.
Equally if you are minimum for your bidding so far, make your bid at the lowest level.

Take this example :   S  A 10 5 4,   H  K Q 8 4,   D  K 9 3,   C  J 9.
Partner opens the bidding with 1C. Straight away you know you want to be in game, either one of the majors or 3NT. But we don't need to rush the auction. Bid 1H (a change of suit, so forcing - partner will find another bid).

Partner now bids 1S. We have found a 4-4 major suit fit so we want to play in spades. 2S or even 3S (both limit bids) could be passed so bid straight to 4S.

If instead of the DK we had the D2, then we still bid 1H but over partner's 1S we bid 3S (invitational) - i am not minimum but am not strong enough to go to game myself; do you fancy it?
If in addition we replace the HK by the H2, then we bid 2S over partner's 1S - I can support your spades but I am minimum for my original bid (only 7 points).  The bidding may well then stop in 2S, but opener could still go on to 4 with a very good hand.

There were 13 tables at the duplicate session afterwards - well done those that stayed on.

The next session will be in the New Year, probably January 26th but I will confirm later.
In the meanwhile, enjoy your bridge. Best wishes for Christmas,
Colin

We had a select group on Friday (not helped by my rather late reminder) and looked at how the defenders can help each other by signalling in certain situations.
This is an area where you have to be on the same wavelength as your partner - so you do need to agree your system of signals and then try to carry them out routinely (even if partner doesn't notice them!).
Once you get into the habit, you'll find it becomes more automatic and you will start to spot partner's signals too. Some notes are attached (and copied below)

A good defence is very satisfying (it is so easy to give declarer extra tricks). Signalling helps but is by no means the complete answer - you have to be on your toes and have a little luck sometimes.
 

The next session will be on Friday December 1st (make a note in your diary) - 6 o'clock at the Catholic Centre.

Best wishes to everyone, Colin

Defensive signals

Defending is difficult but using the small cards to signal can help. Three common situations are:

1. When partner leads an honour

            Play your smallest card to discourage a continuation but a high card to encourage.

For example, partner leads the king, normally showing the queen as well. Dummy has 9 6 5.

Play the two if holding 8 7 2, but the seven if holding J 7 2. The king wins the trick.

            In the first case partner will not continue if holding K Q 10 3 (which would give declarer two tricks, the ace and jack). In the second case, it is safe to continue because you have the jack.

            Note that these signals merely express like or dislike of the suit lead. They are not instructions; partner may know it is safe to continue anyway (e.g. holding K Q J 10)

2. When making a discard

            You can discard your lowest card to discourage the lead of that suit or a high card to encourage.

For example, declarer plays a third round of trumps and your partner wins with the queen. You have no trumps.

Holding 8 7 5 4 2 of a suit, discard the 2. Holding A Q 8 7 2 with dummy having the king, discard the eight. 

            Again these signals are not explicit instructions.

Remember:

3. When giving partner a ruff

            The card you lead can help partner to decide what suit to lead after they have trumped in. A high card is led to suggest the higher ranking of the other two suits (ignoring trumps) and a low card for the lower suit.

For example partner leads the 2♥ against their 4♠ contract. From the bidding, it looks like a singleton. You win with the ace holding A 9 6 3. Lead the 3 if you want partner to return the lower ranking suit, clubs or the 9 if you prefer diamonds.

            This called a McKenney suit preference signal after its advocate (in the 1930s).

            A McKenney signal can also be given in the situation where partner leads a winner and there is a singleton in dummy so it is clear that a switch is required. Follow with a high card for the higher ranking suit or a low card for the lower ranking suit.

Note:

            Other signalling systems can be used (there are a plethora of discard systems) so you need to agree with your partner what system to use. However, the above system is quite a good one and has the merit of simplicity.

            Note that declarer is entitled to ask what signals you are playing. If using the above, you can say ‘High to encourage, low to discourage’.

            And – don’t be afraid to ask the opponents what system they are using, especially when they make a discard. The information may be helpful to you. 

We had a good gang for our teaching session on doubles. Some stayed on for the evening's bridge (16 tables).
And i am delighted to report that both Anne Chidgey & Pam Cleverly and Rick Farley & Angela Hendry both finished with a score above 50%.
That is excellent. Our other pairs gained good experience (in the 40-45% range which is fine), noting that it was two long term club members who finished in last place!

I attach some notes on doubles. Don't worry about the more advanced 'negative doubles' (though at least you will have an idea of what the opponents may be doing).
The bog standard take out double is a really useful weapon - use it more. It helps you to compete and find the best fit. Don't worry if you have the odd disaster initially.

As for next month, the only Friday I may be able to manage is October 13th (sorry, Jan). I will confirm this nearer the time. 

Colin
 

Take out double

            Most people play a double of a suit opened by the opponents as a request for partner to show their longest suit, a so-called ‘take out double’. It is so much more useful than a ‘penalty double’.

            For example, (1♦) Dbl or (1♠) Pass (Pass) Dbl would be take out doubles.

What does a take out double show?

            A take out double normally shows 12+ points and a shortage in the opponent’s suit, looking for a fit in one of the other suits. However a suit overcall is preferable with a good 5-card suit particularly if it is a major.

            What do I do with length in the opponent’s suit?

            A double would be for take out. So, unless you can bid 1NT (showing 15-17 points) or can overcall with another five card suit, the best action is to bite your tongue and pass, awaiting developments. If it gets passed out, you will be happy to defend.

            Notes:

A take out double may be weaker (say 10+) in the fourth seat, if the opening bid has been passed

 e.g. (1♥) Pass (Pass) Dbl.

A double of 1NT is essentially for penalties (though partner can take it out if weak with a 5-card suit).

A double of a natural suit opener at the 2 or 3 level are normally also for take out e.g. (3♣) Dbl.

Responding to a take-out double

            If the next hand passes, bid the longest suit (a major for preference) ignoring the opponent’s suit –  

even with no points.

            Note that if the next hand bids, we no longer have to bid, so if you do, you show normal responding values.

On stronger hands you can jump in a suit with 9+ points or cue bid the opponent’s suit with 12+ points.

 Re-opening double

            If, as opener, the opponents overcall and partner passes, you may well want to keep the bidding open. One possible bid is double, a ‘re-opening double’, still for take out. For example, 1♥ (2♣) Pass (Pass) Dbl.

            The take out double is an attractive option as it allows responder to convert the double into penalties by passing if in the ‘bite your tongue’ situation described above.

            The bid shows a wish to compete, with shortage in the opponent’s suit.

Responding to a re-opening double

            Responder is expected to show a new suit or simply revert to the suit opened. On a very weak hand, the latter may well be the best option. 

            As we have seen, the responder can pass the double for penalties, but only when holding length in the opponent’s suit and some strength.

 Negative doubles

      When the opponents overcall, this can disrupt your bidding, especially if they jump. One extra weapon you do have is the ‘negative double’. By agreement with partner, this replaces a double for penalties. If the bidding goes 1♦ and the next hand overcalls 1♠, a double would show 6+ points and probably four hearts.

Strength of a negative double

            If the overcall is at the 1-level, it shows 6+ points; if at the 2-level, it shows 8+ points and if at the 3-level, ~10+ points.

Shape of a negative double

            In general it shows an interest (usually 4-cards) in any unbid major and partner should bid on that basis. With a 5-card suit it is better to show it if you can, but if this means bidding at the 2-level and you are not strong enough, double first and keep the bidding low.

 How high do negative doubles apply?

            This is a matter partnership agreement. Some set the level at 2♠, but most set the level at 3♠ or even higher.

Opener’s rebid after a negative double

            Opener should bid naturally on the assumption that partner holds four of any unbid major. So, after 1♦ (1♠) Double (Pass), opener should bid 2♥ with four hearts and a minimum opener; note that this does not count as a ‘reverse’. Equally opener might bid 2♦ without a heart fit or 1NT or 2♣. All these bids retain their meaning as though the bidding had gone 1♦ (Pass) 1♥ (Pass).

Note:

Bids in brackets are opponent’s bids. Bids by the good guys are not bracketed.

A little chaotic with 15 tables but we played the full 26 boards and finished on time! 

And our star of the evening was Jackie Reid who finished third with 56%, playing with Jenny McDermott (who is a good, experienced player).
Jackie gains 48 Master points, well on the way to the 100 points needed to attain the English Bridge Union ranking of Local Master!

Roger Skinner and Doreen Duhaut did well too, up near 50% - though we are getting used to that! 
And it's well done to everyone who played. It's the way to gain experience and improve - and it's fun too if a little nerve racking at times.

In the lesson we talked about 'sacrificing', that's bidding a contract expecting to go down but hoping it will be cheaper than letting the opponents make theirs.
The main thing to remember is to look out for the vulnerability - if it's 'green' (non-vulnerable against vulnerable opponents) you can take more risks because you can afford to go three down doubled against the opponents making a game contract. 
You also need a big trump fit with partner, at least nine cards between you, preferably ten.

Some notes are attached, including the hand we looked at. Notice that East-West can make 9 tricks in spades with only 13 high card points between them. But they do have a 10-card fit in trumps.

The next Friday teaching session will be at 6pm on Friday September 8th. I'll remind you nearer the time.

Colin

Sacrificing

            Sacrificing is about making a bid expecting to go down, but losing fewer points than the opponents would have gained from making their contract. Typically this is done when the opponents can make game, but it can be done over a slam or even a part-score.

Vulnerability is key. Against a making game you can afford to go down (doubled):

Is sacrificing worth doing?

            Yes, but three things need to be right:

a) The opponents would have made their game,

b) You don’t go down too many (always assume you will be doubled),

c) Most other pairs with the opponents’ cards are bidding and making game.

Bouncing

            It is much better to get the sacrifice in early before the opponents have exchanged much information, a so-called ‘Advance sacrifice’. In the sequence 2♠ (from partner, weak) pass 4♠, the left-hand opponent does not know whether you expect to make or expect to go down as a sacrifice. He has a horrible guess and may well get it wrong. If you wait, e.g. 2♠ pass pass double, pass 4♥ and now bid 4♠ the opponents can judge it much better. 

            Especially at ‘green’, bounce the bidding quite freely assuming you have a good fit.

Factors favourable for a sacrifice

            Favourable vulnerability; a big fit for partner’s suit; a fit in a side suit (a so-called ‘double fit’); honours in partner’s suit (except for the ace, unlikely to take a trick in defence); a singleton or void in the opponent’s suit; worthless three cards in the opponents suit (partner may well be short).

Opponents bid on after our sacrifice

            Most likely you will let them play there and hope they go one down for a huge score. Be very wary of bidding your hand twice (go the whole hog the first time).

            Not 1♥ 2♦ (overcall from partner) 2♥ 3♦, 4♥ pass pass 5♦, but instead 1♥ 2♦ 2♥ 5♦.

Opponents sacrifice against our game

            First of all, don’t let them play there undoubled. Especially against good opponents, make sure you double even though sometimes it will make.

            There is also an expression “the 5-level belongs to the opponents” meaning that, unless there is an exceptional fit (on a really distributional hand), double in preference to bidding on.

            Sacrificing is fun but don’t overdo it – beware the ‘phantom sacrifice’ when their game would have gone down anyway.

 Here’s a hand:

At favourable (‘green’) vulnerability, West should bid 4♠. It looks as though partner is short in hearts and 4♠ should be a good sacrifice. Additionally, it may bounce North into a risky 5♥ which goes one down.

We had a good Friday session - and bid some hands we dealt on the evening. Good practice and interesting to see what others do on the same hand.

Sometimes you have a choice of bids, all with merit. For example we dealt  S  K 5,  H  A J 7,  D  Q 5 4 2,  C  A Q 9 7, a balanced hand but too strong to open 1NT.
We can open either 1C or 1D, intending to rebid 1NT (showing 15 or 16 points). 1C is the natural bid making it easier for partner to respond and the best chance of finding a minor suit fit.
But 1D is fine with me too. In fact it's quite sneaky. If we end up playing in No Trumps (quite likely), the opposition is less likely to lead our flimsy diamond suit.

On other hands, there is no good bid. We also dealt  S  J 6 5,  H  K 10 7 3,   D  6 3 2,  C  A K 9. Partner opens 1S - what do we reply?
We are too strong for 1NT (normally showing 6-9) and with 11 points could bid at the 2-level though 2H would show a 5-card suit. Supporting spades on a 3-card suit isn't good either especially as we are too strong for the weak 2S reply.
2NT is OK showing a balanced hand of about 11 points, though it takes away a lot of bidding space. And, we discussed the whacky alternative (for the brave) of 2C which is forcing for one round and will tell us more about opener's hand. 
I know we only have three clubs, but over 2D from partner we can bid 2NT; over 2H we can bid 3H and over 2S we can try 3S or just pass. If (inconveniently) partner supports with 3C we can bid 3S and at least partner knows it is only three card support.

So don't think there is always a 'correct' bid: just be as helpful as you can in the circumstances and try to judge the value of the two hands combined. And when you're sure of the best contract, just bid it!

Although finishing in the lower half, Angela Hendry and Rick Farley did well being not far off 50%. Well done to all of you who played - playing as often as you can at this level is a good way to improve.

And the next date for your diary is Friday August 11th (6 pm at the Catholic centre as usual).

Colin



 

Well, those that came played in a 'world-wide simultaneous pairs' !
The same hands were played at clubs right around the world including Japan, Canada, Guatemala, South Africa, Mexico and Greece.
Well over 100 clubs took part and the results are still coming in. A 'top' on a board scored 1620 - a bottom still scores 0 though!

The results are all on the 'Ecats' website, but here are some links to help you navigate.
A copy of all the hands      http://www.simpairs.com/files/007591%20analysis.pdf
Commentary on the hands   http://www.simpairs.com/files/007591%20Commentary.pdf
Taunton bridge club results  http://www.simpairs.com/localranking.asp?session=007591&ClubId=007591TauntonBridgeClub01823672119
... and if you then click on your name you can see the detailed results on each board 
... and if you then click on a board you can see all the different results on that board.

I would concentrate on the commentary (I'm sure you'll remember some of the hands) and you'll find it quite instructive..

There were some exciting, distributional hands hands like board 17, some slam hands (boards 11 and 20). But then there are the bread and butter hands which are just as important in the final scores.

At Taunton the best performing pair in 'our group' appeared to be Jan Allen and Elizabeth Twine - but when it was scored overall across all the clubs they were pipped by Rick Farley and Angela Hendry.
But well done to all our pairs who participated. I hope you enjoyed it.

Now, the date for the diary next month is Friday July 7th as usual 6 pm at the Catholic Centre (I'll try to issue an earlier reminder this time).

Best wishes to everyone, Colin

I was away yesterday on a local geology field trip, covering Cothlestone and Lydeard Hills, Nynehead, Lipe Hill, Knapp quarry and most importantly the Rising Sun at Knapp.

So I didn't have a chance to e-mail yesterday. Anyway we had a good session on Friday. Rex Amor & John Dourleyn were doing very well with over 50% at tea break, but fell away somewhat.
In the end Pat & David Sweet finished best of our group just ahead of Jan Allen & Elizabeth Twine. Well done to everyone. It was quite noisy with 14 tables in play.

Pat & David had a number of good boards but I pick out board 17 where they played in 3H going 2 down for -100. Well, that doesn't sound good, but the opponents can make 9 tricks (or more) in spades, scoring 140 so only losing 100 was an excellent score.
Be prepared to compete when you have a good fit with partner even when the opponents hold the balance of the points, especially if you have 9 cards between you in a suit.

Remember: it doesn't matter if you go down when the opponents could score more by making their contract.
But be aware of the vulnerability - it's more dangerous when vulnerable. The way the scoring works, losing 100 is fine against a part-score and likewise -300 against a non-vulnerable game or -500 against a vulnerable game. 
Bear in mind that you will likely be doubled bidding over an opposing game contract.

We looked at No Trump play in the teaching session - including counting, ducking and the crunch (when we can't afford to let the opponents in again because they have established enough tricks to defeat us).
Some notes are attached and copied below.

The next Friday session is at 6pm on Friday June 2nd. Come along - it will take your mind off the election!

Colin
Counting

On a good day, most bridge players can count up to thirteen. But it isn’t always evident!

   It’s not practical to remember every single card that has been played (though it would be useful). But try to keep track of the top honours played and also the number of cards that have gone in at least one suit.

   Playing in a suit contract, it’s important to count the number of trumps that have gone to know how many the opponent’s have left. In No Trumps count the number of cards which have been played in your critical suit.

   It can help to count in fours – every round which has been played to which everyone follows is four cards gone.

   Also, as each suit is played, try to work out the distribution and gradually form a picture of the hand.

   You’ll find this improves with experience, but you do have to concentrate – and this can be difficult, especially towards the end of the evening.

   Bidding:       N         E          S          W        N

                        1♣       1♥        2NT     Pass     3NT     All pass

   Lead:            7♥ to East’s K; the 6♥ is returned to the J, 9 and 5.

   We have 8 tricks on top – two spades, two diamonds, three clubs and the heart we have already made. How can we make a ninth trick? There are possibilities in clubs and diamonds.

   If the clubs break 3-2 we can make an extra club. Play off the A and K and see if they both follow. If they do, eight will have gone, we still have four more between us, so there is only one left. The Q will drop that and our 6♣ will be a winner! Cash that and don’t risk the diamond finesses for an overtrick – if it’s wrong we would go one down.

   But, on the second round of clubs, East discards a small diamond. So, only seven clubs have gone and with our four left, West has two more. We are only going to make our three top club tricks. Now the only chance of making the contract is to take the diamond finesse. So, cross to the A♦ and lead a diamond to the jack. Phew, it wins! And, when we continue with the K♦, East plays a spade and West the Q♦.

   We have our nine tricks, but is that 3♦ a winner or is West mucking about playing the queen? We have had three rounds of diamonds, but East showed out on the last round, so that is eleven gone. The 3♦ makes twelve so is there one left? If you remember East discarding a diamond you will know there isn’t, but to be safe let’s cash the A, K of spades and the Q♣ (that’s nine tricks) and then try the 3♦. Well, we’ve ended up with an overtrick; that should be a good score.

The crunch point

            Playing in No Trumps, try to establish tricks by knocking out the opponents high cards. Don’t play off your winners because you are frightened of losing the lead – you will be helping the defenders to set up their tricks.

            BUT, once the opponents have set up winning cards in their long suit, you may not be able to afford to lose the lead again. This is the ‘crunch point’.

            Here’s a hand:

West                            East                                         The bidding might go

♠   A K                                    ♠   7 4                                      West                East

♥   A K J 10                ♥   5 4 2                                   2♣                   2♦

♦   J 7 6                        ♦   K Q 10 3                            2NT                 3NT

♣   A K 8 3                 ♣   9 6 5 4                               North leads the Q♠

            After winning the spade, don’t cash your winners (especially the other spade!). Instead try to set up three diamond tricks by leading the J♦.

            If the opponents win with the ace, they will lead a second round of spades. You will win this, but the opponents have set up lots of spade tricks. It’s the crunch point – it’s time to cash our tricks and with two spades, two hearts, three diamonds and two clubs, we will make the contract. Don’t risk the heart finesse.

            If the opponents are on form they will hold up the ace of diamonds at trick two and again when we lead a diamond to the ten. Now if we play a third diamond, there will be no entry to make the long diamond – and we will probably go down. It’s time to change plans. On the plus side we have made two diamond tricks and still have control. We can certainly establish an extra trick in hearts – let’s take the finesse now by playing a small heart to the jack.

            If the heart finesse loses, a spade will come back and, yes, we’ve reached the crunch point. We have to cash out but we’ll still get home with two spades, three hearts, two diamonds and two clubs.

            Finally, if the heart finesse wins, we are still in control and can play on clubs, setting up an extra trick there if they break 3-2. This would give us an overtrick, perhaps even two overtricks which would be a really good score on the board.

So,

Don’t play off your winners straightaway.

Instead, establish winners by knocking out the opponent’s high cards.

Don’t be scared of losing the lead

                        – until the crunch point; then it’s time to cash out.

We had about ten for our Friday session and most stayed on to play in the evening.

Roger Skinner & Doreen Duhaut were again our best performing pair with 52%. This was helped by making 5S doubled with an overtrick on board 4!
Only a few places behind were Elizabeth Twine & Jan Allen. The full results are on Jackie's website https://www.bridgewebs.com/taunton

In the revision session we dealt with bidding big game going hands, or hands which only require a smidgeon from partner to make game.
If balanced you need 23+ points but as we saw strong distributional hands can also be opened 2C.

So, a 2C opener is reserved for those really big hands. Partner should alert this (as it is conventional and has no reference to clubs).
More importantly, it should NEVER be passed! Just bid the relay, 2D, even with no points at all.

The attached notes show how the auction can then proceed. 

Our next Friday session will be on Friday May 5th starting at 6.00pm. Sorry, Fridays in April didn't work out.

Enjoy your bridge meanwhile,  Colin

Two club opener

            Most systems have a bid which covers a very strong, game going hand. In Acol this is a 2♣ opener.

            Note that in ‘Benji’ (short for Benjamin), 2♦ is used as the strong, game going bid – but the same principles apply.

2♣ opening

            2♣ shows a very strong hand and, with one exception, is forcing to game. This is a conventional bid (not referring to clubs) and should be alerted by partner.

            If balanced, it shows 23+ points (there is a way of stopping in 2NT if partner is really weak). It does not need to be as strong if unbalanced as a good suit and singletons or voids can make up for high card points.

2♦ response to 2♣

            This is a relay bid merely to let opener describe their hand. It should also be alerted. Bid 2♦ even with no points at all. NEVER pass partner’s 2♣ opening!

Other responses to 2♣

            Methods vary. Some like an ace and a king to make a ‘positive’ response. Others prefer to show a decent suit (five or more to two of the top three honours). It’s not critical, but if you do respond 2♦ with a good hand, you will have to make up for it later as a slam may well be on.

Opener’s rebid after 2♣ 2♦

2♥/2♠  Game going with at least 5 in the suit.

2NT     Balanced 23-24.

3♣/3♦  Game going with at least 5 in the suit, probably more.

3♥/3♠  Game going with a solid suit; this is the suit we’re going to play in.

3NT     Balanced 25+.

Responses after 2♣ 2♦ 2♥/2♠

            Bid naturally, for example, raising partner with 3+ card support or bidding a new suit.

            Note, however that 2NT doesn’t promise anything, but gives opener a chance to bid a second suit or re-bid the first suit showing at least 6-cards.

Responses after 2♣ 2♦ 2NT

            Follow the same system as used after a 2NT opener, bearing in mind the strength is 23/24 points. So, for example:

Pass     Less than two points; the one sequence where the bidding can stop short of game.

3♣       Stayman, asking opener to bid a major or 3♦ without a major.

First of all I need to congratulate Roger Skinner and Doreen Duhaut on their excellent performance in coming third with over 57% on the previous Friday. Brilliant.
They were going easy on the opposition yesterday though!

The best of our Thursday group yesterday were Jan Allen and Elizabeth Twine (you remember - the Quiet Assassins). They scored a very creditable 50 % and finished above halfway.
The full results are here https://www.bridgewebs.com/cgi-bin/bwoi/bw.cgi?pid=display_rank&msec=1&event=20170217_1&wd=1&club=taunton 
or go via Jackie's Taunton website here https://www.bridgewebs.com/taunton/

Well done to all our pairs who played. The revision session was on weak 2s and 3s.
Board 21 showed the weak 2 in action. North can open 2H (6-card suit, 6-10 points). If allowed to play there, the contract makes for a good score to N-S.
East-West need to get into the auction and the recommended way on this hand is for East to make a take-out double and West to bid 3D. This also makes and gives E-W the good score.

Against us, Jan was East and, picking up from the lesson, intended to Double. Unfortunately she produced the green Pass card, admittedly with a flourish.
It was only after the hand was played that it emerged, to some amusement and consternation, that she had brought out the wrong card from the bidding box!

Some notes are attached - the main points are that
3C, 3D, 3H and 3S are weak bids, say 5-9 points, with a 7-card suit;
2H and 2S (if you agree with your partner to play 'weak 2s') are weak bids with a 6-card suit;
2C and 2D - we'll leave to next time.

Our next session will be on Friday March 17th, that's 6pm at the Catholic Centre as usual.
Remember you are all very welcome to come on any Friday for our regular club duplicate, starting at 7pm.

Colin

Pre-empts

Opening a pre-empt

            The idea of a pre-empt is to make life difficult for the opposition, making then guess at a high level. To offset the danger of being doubled, a long suit is needed.

            Open at the 3-level, showing a 7-card suit and 5-9 points. Preferably most of the points will be in the suit. A 4-level opening will normally have an 8-card suit.

            Take liberties non-vulnerable against vulnerable, especially third in hand after two passes (when we know the left-hand opponent is strong).

            Be disciplined (hold a good suit) when vulnerable or when second in hand since the pre-empt is just as likely to find partner with a strong hand as the opponents.

How many can I afford to go down?

            If the opponent’s can make game, we can score better by bidding and going down even if we are doubled providing we don’t go down too many. These are the numbers:

Responding to partner’s 3-level pre-empt

            Pass. Often the right bid, even with a void or singleton in partner’s suit.

            Raise to 4. EITHER because you expect to make it OR because you have a fit and want to make it even more difficult for the opponents to come in.

            Raise to 5 (of a minor). For the same reasons.

            3NT. To play, expecting to run the long suit (holding two or more cards in the suit with a top honour), with sufficient outside to hold the fort. Aces are invaluable.

            A new suit. Natural and constructive, on a good hand. Unless the bid is at the game level, the bid is forcing.

            4NT. Blackwood.

Note: Honours in partner’s suit and outside aces are really useful. Outside queens and jacks are not.

Dealing with opponent’s pre-empt

            Pass. Nothing to say, including a hand that would like to make a penalty double (instead, pass and hope partner makes a take out double which you can leave in).

            Double. For take-out with opening values, a shortage in the opponent’s suit and no good suit to bid.

            3NT. To play with 18+ points and a stop in the opponent’s suit. Hoping the outstanding points are evenly divided; yes; it could go wrong.

            A new suit. Natural, with a 5-card suit or longer and opening values. Not forcing.

            Jump to game. Natural, with a good suit and too strong to risk partner passing.

Note: It may seem risky to bid over a pre-empt but it’s also risky not to compete. That’s why pre-empts are so effective. Be prepared to take more risks in the ‘protective position’ e.g. after 3♥ pass pass.

Weak twos

            In most systems, 2♣ shows a strong hand (alertable as it is does not refer to clubs). Originally Acol had 2♦, 2♥ and 2♠ as strong hands with 8-playing tricks in the suit bid.

            Nowadays many players use these bids to show weak, pre-emptive hands holding a 6-card suit. They are designed to make life difficult for the opponents.

Note that in Benjamin (or ‘Benji’), 2♦ is a strong conventional bid (with 2♥ and 2♠ as weak).

Opening a weak two

            To open a weak two, you should have a 6-card suit and 6-10 points. It is similar to a pre-emptive

3-level bid but with only six of the suit.

            The suit should be a reasonable one with at least one of the top three honours.

            Natural 2-level bids should be announced; partner should simply say “Weak”.

Responses to a weak two (e.g. partner opens 2♥)

Pass                 Not strong enough to bid.

3♥                    Pre-emptive, usually with 3-card support (opener should pass this).

4♥                    Either pre-emptive with 4-card support

                        Or on a stronger hand expecting to make.

2NT                  16+ points – an enquiry bid (alertable) seeking more information

                        (may be weaker with a fit in trumps).

2♠, 3♣, 3♦       Natural, non-forcing, short in partner’s suit.

Opener’s rebid after 2NT response

There are different systems but one common one is Ogust:

3♣                   Weak (6-8)                  With fewer than 2 of the top 3 honours.

3♦                    Weak (6-8)                  With 2 of the top 3 honours.

3♥                    Strong (8-10)               With fewer than 2 of the top 3 honours.

3♠                    Strong (8-10)               With 2 of the top 3 honours.

3NT                 Strong (9, 10)              With all 3 top honours.

Dealing with opponent’s weak two

Pass                 Nothing to say, including a hand that would like to make a penalty double

                        (instead, pass and hope partner makes a take out double which you can leave in).

Double            For take-out with opening values, a shortage in the opponent’s suit and no good suit to bid.

2NT                Natural 15-17 with a stop in the opponent’s suit.

3NT                To play with 18+ points and a stop in the opponent’s suit.

A new suit      Natural, with a 5-card suit or longer and opening values. Not forcing.

Jump to game            Natural, with a good suit and too strong to risk partner passing.

It was very pleasing to see a good number of you at our session yesterday (especially as there were quite a few who couldn't come for one reason or another).
And everyone stayed on for the evening session. You can go straight to the results here:
https://www.bridgewebs.com/cgi-bin/bwoi/bw.cgi?pid=display_rank&msec=1&event=20170113_1&wd=1&club=taunton 
or go via the website https://www.bridgewebs.com/taunton/ 

We had some wonderful results with five of our pairs above 50%! The roll of honour reads:
John Cavaciuti & Marilyn Sheppard 5th 55%, Elizabeth Twine & Jackie Moody 53% 7th, 
Eveleen O'Farrell & Jackie Reid 51% 11th, Roger Skinner & Doreen Duhaut 51% 12th, Angela Hendry & Rick Farley 50% 14th.

Well done not just to those five pairs but to everyone who played.

At our 6pm session, we covered overcalls and the take-out double, the latter being very useful once you get the idea.
Remember the take-out double shows an opening hand, shortage in the opposition suit, wanting to find out where partner's best suit is. 

There are good reasons to overcall, not the least being that it gives partner a good lead if we end up defending.
Jackie Moody introduced me to another good reason, BUTO (an acronym which I'm not spelling out for reasons of good taste!) which is covered in b) below.
Some notes are attached and copied below.

The next 6pm session is on Friday February 17th

But you can come to the club any Friday if you wish.
Well done again,
Colin

Competitive bidding

It is good to get into the auction

            a) It is constructive; we may find a good contract

            b) It messes up the opponents bidding

            c) It gives partner a good suit to lead if we end up defending

And we can overcall with quite a weak hand providing we have a decent suit.

Overcalls

If the opponent opens 1 of a suit e.g.1♦, these are the main options:

1♥, 1♠ A simple overcall at the one level shows 5+ cards in the suit bid and 8+ points.

            The suit should pass the SQOT test (length + honours ≥7).

2♣       A simple overcall at the two level shows 5+ cards in the suit bid and 10+ points.

            The suit should also pass the SQOT test (length + honours ≥8).

2♥, 2♠ Jump overcall. A matter of partnership agreement.

            Can be played as weak, 6-10 points, 6-card suit.

Dbl      for ‘take-out’, showing 12+ points and shortage in opponent’s suit, looking for a fit in one of the other suits. It should have at least one four card major.

1NT    15-17, balanced, with at least one stopper in the opponent’s suit.

Suit Quality Overcall Test – the length of the suit plus the number of honours in the suit (A,K,Q,J or 10) should be at least as many as the number of tricks contracted for.

Responding to simple suit overcalls

If possible support partner’s suit (showing 3+ cards in the suit). With 6-9 points support to the ‘level of the fit’ assuming partner has a 5-card suit, i.e. with 3 / 4 / 5 card support bid to the 2 / 3 / 4 level.

With 10+ points and 3+ card support, cue bid the opponent’s suit, an ‘unassuming cue bid’.

Only bid another suit if you don’t have support. You need the same values as if you were making an overcall (including SQOT). Just pass if you are weak.

Responding to a take-out double

If the next hand passes, bid the longest suit (a major for preference) ignoring the opponent’s suit –

             even with no points.

Note if the next hand bids, we no longer have to bid, so if you do, you show normal responding values.

On stronger hands you can jump in a suit with 9+ points or cue bid the opponent’s suit with 12+ points.

Responding to a 1NT overcall

Responses are the same as responding to a 1NT opener except that we can be three points lighter (as partner is three points stronger). So, 2♣ is Stayman asking for a 4-card major, 2♦ / 2♥ are transfers showing 5+ cards in hearts / spades, 2NTis invitational (8 or 9 points), 3NT on 10+.

And a final tip:

Bid boldly when you know there is a good fit. Bid cautiously if it looks like a misfit.