31 The art of overcalling  (part 1)

We do a lot of this, probably far more than we should, but the important thing is to do it properly if at all. Here are my rules:

a) Base it on playing tricks (PT) not on points, don’t even look at those. (Except 1NT overcall, 16+). PT roughly speaking is HT + suit length plus a little common sense.

b) Five cards is the absolute minimum but more is better. Never fall in love with a 5-card suit.

c) Assess its strength thus: Look at the first three cards and see their HT value, add one for every card after these first three. (See why a 5-carder is not too marvellous?) You can also add HT for any other pictures you have.  Example: Your diamonds are KQJxx which is  2HT and 2 for length, that’s 4. You also have Axx in spades so that’s one more = 5.  And there’s more. We use the venerable Rule of Two and Three which adds tricks for your partner’s presumed hand, two if vulnerable and three if not. Say we’re not vulnerable, so our grand total  is 8, now we can bid for 8 tricks = 2 diamonds.

d) Counting the losers in your suit may be simpler. AKQxxx = no losers,  AQJxx = ½ a loser,  KQJxxx =1 loser, QJ10xxx = 2 losers.

And here’s what to do with a double gap such as AJ10xxx  or AQ10xx where you are clearly missing two honours. Does this make them 2-loser suits or what? No, 1-loser suits 75% of the time. You aim to finesse the suit twice if you can, and expect to lose the first time but not the second time, because most of the time the two missing honours are split between your two opponents. Only 25% of the time are they both with the RHO.